Backyard Chicken - Week 3: Prepare the Coop

Week 3: Prepare the Coop

Your chicks are changing each day and are likely filled with personality. In addition to the steps provided on the previous page, now is a perfect time to plan ahead.

Around week six, chicks will trade in the brooder for the coop. Be ready in advance by deciding on a location and design of their new home.

Coop location

Everybody loves a little “chicken TV” so be sure to place your coop near a window. This way, you can keep an eye on the flock when they’re playing in the yard.

Beyond a window view, answer these questions while location scouting:

1. Are there rules about where the coop can be built? Some cities have regulations about distance to neighbors, buildings, roads or property lines.

2. Is the area protected from stressors including heavy sun, wind, predators and loud noises?

3. Is the spot flat? A flat area simplifies the process.

4. Does the area have good drainage?

5. Does the coop location provide both sun and shade for the birds?

6. Is the location close to utilities, including water, electricity and feed storage?

Coop design options

Once you’ve determined a location, consider your chicken coop design — we call this Coopitecture™. There are several types of Coopitecture™, so your first design decision is to choose a type of structure. Based on available space, selected breeds and your backyard goals, choose the type of housing that works best for you.

Chicken Tractors

Chicken tractors are best suited for small flocks that live in big yards. The structures are built similarly to a wheelbarrow, with two wheels and handles for mobility. Routinely moving the structure helps birds explore new areas, control insects and fertilize the lawn.

Chicken Wagons

Chicken wagons work well for those wanting a large, movable coop; for instance, if you have rotational pastures and a large flock. The wagons are on four wheels and include a ramp for birds to enter. The wagon can easily be moved to different paddocks or various parts of the yard.

Chicken Coops

Chicken sheds, or stationery coops with runs, are the most common form of coops. They work well in both rural and urban areas because they require minimal space and provide both outdoor and indoor access. This type of coop is easily maintained and the easiest to predator proof.

Coop Considerations

Once you’ve determined your coop location and the design type, it’s time to map out the logistics. Some flock raisers like to build their own coops with blueprints while others work with builders or purchase prebuilt coops.

When we built our 12 coops at the Purina Animal Nutrition Center, we worked with a coop builder. We focused on safety and comfort for our birds and convenience for our flock care team.

Here are a few points we kept in mind:

Space: Each bird should have indoor and outdoor access. Provide at least 4 square feet of indoor space and 5–10 square feet of outdoor space per bird. Account for additional space in case you add more birds to your flock later.

Access: The coop should be an enjoyable space for your family. Keep in mind your own height. Build the coop tall enough so that you can easily enter to take care of the flock. It’s best if you can stand inside.

Ventilation: Fresh air is essential during all seasons. The coop should have windows on all four sides and ventilation holes at the top. Even if you live in a cold climate, don’t completely seal the coop from fresh air as ammonia buildup can be hazardous to birds.

Electrical outlets: You may need electricity as birds get older. Outlets can be used to power additional lighting and automatic light timers as days get shorter, water heaters during the winter or fans during the summer. We suggest lighting incandescent 40-watt or LED 9- to 13-watt bulb per 100 square feet of coop space.

Predator-proof: Use galvanized welded wire or hardware cloth instead of chicken wire. Chicken wire can stretch and allow predators access to the run. If your windows and doors have traditional mesh screening, add a layer of hardware cloth to those openings to prevent predators from getting in the coop. The opening in the wire mesh shouldn’t be larger than 1/2” x 1/2”.

Bury galvanized wire underground to prevent burrowing predators. To do this, bury wire 6 inches underground, parallel to the walls of the coop and run. Then, bend the wire 90 degrees to run the wire out from the coop parallel to the ground for 12 inches. Finally, cover the wire with dirt. If a predator tries to dig under the coop or run, they hit the buried welded wire and stop digging.

An area for feed and water: Designate areas for feeders and waterers. It’s a good practice to place the feeders and waterers in the run, so chickens eat outside and sleep inside. Don’t forget about feed storage. You should have a place that keeps feed dry and away from rodents.

Roosts: Provide at least 1 foot of roosting space per bird for sleeping. Chickens like to sleep off the ground. A board that measures 2”x4”, with the wide edge facing up can work well for a roost. Consider roosts for laying pullets and hens but avoid them for meat birds.

Nests: Build nesting boxes with easy access for egg removal. A general rule is to provide one 1-foot cube nest box for every four or five hens. The hens will take turns using the boxes. Keep the nests up off the floor in the darkest corner of the coop. On our farm, we built nesting boxes with outdoor access so that we can collect eggs without disturbing the hens.

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